There’s always something new keeping us entertained in the nail world. So far this year, we’ve spotted Bio Sculpture nails (a vegan gel nail enhancement that preserves nail health) and BIAB (also known as Builder In A Bottle, a type of gel that adds strength and structure to your nails). Then came Hyperreal Nails , which give the illusion of natural nails using gel or acrylic extensions e, and Invisible Manicures (for arguably the chicest manicure you’ll ever have). If Instagram is anything to go by, these techniques are all geared towards nail aesthetics, lending themselves to cool custom designs or colors. Rarely are they a targeted remedy for dry, brittle and weak nails.
But the latest trend getting plenty of well-deserved attention is the Japanese manicure.
What is the Japanese manicure?
The Japanese manicure is a ritualistic experience first and foremost. Often referred to as ‚P.Shine‘ after the company that brought the ritual to the masses, the method is thought to date back around 400 years in Japan.
The Japanese manicure has one main aim: to improve the health of your nails and give them a beautiful pearlescent finish.
In essence, it’s about massaging nutrients deep into your nail plate to make your nails super healthy so that they shine on their own without the need for a drop of polish.. The method doesn’t promise any additional nail length or out-there nail art. Instead it can transform neglected, weak nails, especially those that have been subjected to gels or acrylics.
We’re talking strictly kind-to-the-nail tools, no harsh solvents and absolutely zero nail polish. You might be thinking, so what’s the point? It’s all in the name of nail health. Given that many of us go against every nail technician’s wish of using cuticle oil every day, it’s just the ticket for breathing life into dry, damaged nail beds and turning them into pearly new canvases.
In line with the manicure’s age-old roots, no metal tools or solvents are used throughout the process. Only ceramic nail files and traditional polishing units and natural oils are used. As this is a very old practice, some salons enlist deer or calfskin files and cloths. However, nowadays, many salons opt for cruelty-free tools and if you’re doing this at home, you can just use a simple nail buffer.
It really brings the manicure routine back to basics. You’re incorporating the application of oils, pushing back (but not cutting) the cuticles and providing a hand massage. Not only does the Japanese manicure impart a beautifully groomed aesthetic, it also gives nails a break from the use of electric tools (potentially damaging if used incorrectly) or nail polish formulas (which can often stain). It’s great for rest periods between gel polish or extensions, as you can get nails and hands back into optimum condition.
What happens during the Japanese manicure?
The first step in a traditional Japanese manicure is cleansing and shaping your nails with a nail file, and pushing the cuticles back. A gentle cuticle remover may also be used here, whether a lotion or a snipping tool.
Next, the nail plate is smoothed using a buffer and a stiff brush. Thirdly, a green paste is applied onto the nail plate. It’s typically made from a mix of vitamins A and E, bee pollen, keratin (a protein found naturally in nails) and silica (a mineral from the Sea of Japan). It has a characteristic green color and also contains different oils such as jojoba, bamboo, ylang-ylang and red tea. This is then gently buffed in using a chamois (a natural leather) tool.
Once all the nails have been buffed with the paste, the manicurist gently buffs a mineral powder into each nail plate, again with the chamois. The powder (often known as P.Shine powder) is made from diatomaceous earth (a naturally occurring, soft sedimentary rock that can be crumbled into a fine powder) as well as beeswax. It’s used to seal in the nutrients from the paste and to give the nails a slight pink sheen that lasts for about two weeks.
When combined, the paste and powder trap in moisture and nutrients to lend the most incredible gleam. It’s hard to believe the result isn’t actually caused by a high-shine top coat. The final step is a good hand massage using thick creams and cuticle oils.
Can the Japanese manicure help weak nails?
That’s exactly what it can do. The Japanese manicure is essentially a strengthening treatment for brittleness. The ingredients in both the powder and paste are great for reinforcing weak nails. Beeswax in particular is an excellent emollient, which means it retains moisture. while the addition of keratin can help to rebuild the nail structure.
The hand massage is also important. Using nourishing products will result in smooth, hydrated and healthy skin, as well as strong, flexible nails that withstand wear and tear and are able to grow. When it comes to moisturizing your hands consistency is key.
Treatments like the Japanese manicure are only going to grow in popularity. We definitely see a demand for health-conscious manicures where the focus is on natural ingredients. The Japanese manicure is a good choice for someone who wants to take a break from extensions and gel polish especially.
